The Fascinating Cham temple of Po Klong Garai
Just outside of the city of Phan Rang, you'll discover the beautiful 13th century Cham temple of Po Klong Garai.
The temple itself is well preserved, and overlooks the city.
The magnificent architecture and masonry work make this one of the outstanding Cham monuments in the country.
Its setting makes it a better viewing experience than Po Nagar in nearby Nha Trang, where the temple is encased in an urban sarcophagus of traffic and souvenir hawkers.
Here at Po Klong Garai, the attendant will unlock the door of the kalan (sanctuary), where you'll see a linga (phallic statue, which represents creativity and fecundity), upon which is painted a male face.
Outside of the vestibule is the bull, Nandin, which ensures agricultural productivity.
Be sure to inspect the door pillars, inscribed with Cham text.
Po Klong Garai is relatively unvisited and boasts good views of the countryside.
The Vietnamese government is building a sizable tourist complex on the spot, so we advise you to go now, while it's still quiet.
If you're not on a tour, you can visit the temple by xe om (motorbike) for 15,000 VND.
Entrance to the temple is 5,000 VND.
GPS: N11°36.083' E108°56.791'
Po Ro Me temple
A few kilometers away, you'll find the quiet, stately Po Ro Me Cham temple, ensconced among a few trees on a hill overlooking farmlands, and surrounded by prickly pear cactus.
Here's a great place to stop and enjoy the breeze and the temple's splendid design, away from the noise of the city.
There's no charge to enter the temple, but do tip the guard, who will be happy to open the sanctuary for you upon request.
Getting there is easy, but finding it is the challenge.
If you go by motorbike, you can take the trail to within a few meters of the temple.
By car, you'll leave it at the highway, and walk a relatively easy 500 meters uphill to the temple.
To get to Po Re Me, park your car near the turnoff from Highway 1 at GPS N11°30.136' E108°52.267'.
This turnoff is actually a few meters northeast of the sign that says 'Thap Poreme', and is dirt track, only wide enough for a motorbike.
The temple itself is uphill at GPS N11°30.081' E 108°51.955'.
You won't want to stay in the city of Phan Rang, and even the buses leaving town are ornery ...
